Transvideo Starlite Monitor Bracket for Preston MDR-3 (Version B)

Strong rigid and lightweight

Fixes via the four 8-32 UNC holes in the MDR-3’s base

Constant-friction pivot for easy monitor positioning

Details

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This is the ‘Transvideo Starlite to MDR-3’ bracket which is used to mount the Starlite monitor via the four 8-32 UNC mounting holes on the base of the Preston MDR-3. 

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Allows you to firmly mount the monitor at the front of the steadicam's stage, primarily as a secondary monitor for low mode use.

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It is lightweight, rigid and has a ‘constant friction pivot’ so the monitor can be tilted without loosening the thumbwheels. You simply screw down the thumbwheels to select the required friction and you’re good to go.

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NB. Note the orientation relative to the MDR. The MDR-3’s mounting points are not symmetrical so if you mount your MDR with the antenna at the side you will need Version A of this bracket; click HERE

To Buy

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To make this bracket, you will need to buy all the parts in this list.

Click on each item to go directly to that part on the Shapeways 3D printing site and put it in your basket.

Once you have all the parts in your basket, go to the checkout for the total price.

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1. BSMDR3B

2. PADSTA

3. TWA22 (you will need two of these)

4. TWC28

5. CP122NT

6. CP222HD

7. CP328HD

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To complete the bracket you will also need;

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One 1/4 UNC x 5/8" hexagonal headed bolt.

One 1/4 UNC x 2" hexagonal headed bolt.

One 1/4 UNC half-height hexagonal nut (only a 4mm high half-nut will fit)

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In the UK, I have found Westfield Fasteners a good source for UNC nuts and bolts and the links above are to their site.

Assembly

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Refer to the exploded view and the part pictures (below) for a guide as to how it all goes together.

TWO IMPORTANT NOTES BEFORE YOU START

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Sometimes slight 3D printing variation means that the fit of the bolts in the printed holes is a little too tight.

If this is the case and the fit is a little too stiff then just widen the hole slightly by pushing a 1/4" bolt back and forth through the hole until it can slide easily.

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When you slide the bolts into the thumbwheels, ensure the bolt head is sat all the way down at the bottom.

Sometimes there can be a small build up of excess printing powder on the inside corners of the thumbwheel, so if that’s the case, just scrape it away before you put the bolt in. This will ensure enough room for the cap to snap into place.

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OK ALL SET TO GO ………………..

BSMDR3B

CP328HD

PADSTA

TWC28

CP122NT

TWA22

CP222HD

TWA22

1. Slide the 1/4” UNC x 2” bolt through one of the TWA22 thumbwheels and then through the base (BSMDR3B) and paddle (PADSTA) to form the pivot.

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2. Push the 1/4” UNC half-nut into the remaining TWA22 thumbwheel and screw it onto the end of the 2” bolt.

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3. Slide the larger remaining thumbwheel with the dovetail base (Part TWC28) into the slot in the ‘paddle’ (Part PADSTA) until the holes align and then push through the 1/4” UNC x 5/8” bolt.

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4. Each of the smaller thumbwheel caps has 3 small sawtooth catches which latch into the sawtooth holes in the thumbwheel body so before pushing the caps into the thumbwheels, make sure that the sawtooth and its corresponding hole is aligned.

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Also, make sure that cap CP122NT is the one which is used at the nut end of the main pivot and the cap CP222HD is used at the bolt-head end. NT for ’Nut’ HD for ‘Head’

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The caps are fitted by lining them up squarely and pushing them firmly into the thumbwheel body. If this is not done squarely then there is a chance that the caps's lugs could be damaged. This is not the end of the world but you would probably then need to use some superglue to ensure the cap stays attached.

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5. The larger cap fits in the same way. Just make sure it is square to the thumbwheel then just push firmly and it will click into place.