Transvideo ‘Starlite’ Monitor Bracket for Preston MDR-2 (Version A)
Strong rigid and lightweight
Fixes via the four 8-32 UNC holes in the MDR-2’s base
Constant-friction pivot for easy monitor positioning
New screw-in end caps with optional colour coding
Note the orientation relative to the MDR. The MDR-2’s mounting points are not symmetrical so if you mount the MDR to your sled, with the antenna at the front or back you will need Version B of this bracket; click HERE.
This is the ‘Transvideo Starlite to MDR-2’ bracket which is used to mount the Starlite monitor via the four 8-32 UNC mounting holes on the base of the Preston MDR-2. Use 8-32 UNC x 3/8" socket cap screws. All the parts are in black although colour coded end caps can be printed separately.
Allows you to firmly mount the monitor to your MDR-2, at the front of the steadicam's stage, primarily as a secondary monitor for low mode use.
It is lightweight, rigid and has a ‘constant friction pivot’ so the monitor can be tilted without loosening the thumbwheels. You simply screw down the thumbwheels to select the required friction and you’re good to go.
This bracket comes in kit form. To buy this kit
As all the parts are printed together in one go, they will all be in black, including the end caps but you can buy a separate set of colour coded end caps here………………….
To complete the bracket you will also need;
One 1/4 UNC half-height hexagonal nut (only a 4mm high half-nut will allow the end caps to fit properly)
In the UK, I have found Westfield Fasteners a good source for UNC nuts and bolts and the links above are to their site.
1. Carefully separate the thumbwheels and caps from each other.
Use a sharp knife and be sure to remove all of the supporting sprues.
2. Sometimes slight 3D printing variation means that the fit of the bolts in the printed holes is a little too tight.
If this is the case and the fit is a little too stiff then just widen the hole slightly by pushing a 1/4" bolt back and forth through the
hole until it can slide easily or you can use a drill and 1/4” bit.
3. When you slide the bolts into the thumbwheels, ensure the bolt head is sat all the way down at the bottom.
Sometimes there can be a small build up of excess printing powder on the inside corners of the thumbwheel, so if that’s the
case, just scrape it away before you put the bolt in. This will ensure enough room for the cap to screw into place.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER (refer to the pictures below)
1. Slide the 1/4” UNC x 2” bolt through one of the smaller thumbwheels and then through the base and paddle to form the pivot.
2. Push the 1/4” UNC half-nut into the remaining small thumbwheel and screw it onto the end of the 2” bolt.
3. Slide the larger remaining thumbwheel with the dovetail base into the slot in the paddle until the holes align and then push through the 1/4” UNC x 5/8” bolt.
4. Screw on the end caps. The end cap with the larger split column in the centre goes at the head end of the 2” bolt and the other one at the nut end. Once you’re happy that the cap screws on smoothly, you can put a spot of cynoacrylate glue (superglue/crazyglue) on the cap thread to ensure it doesn’t come loose.
5. Now just screw down the thumbwheels against each other until you’ve got your preferred stiffness and you’re good to go!